Before though getting out of town we had our first of many visits to the local police station. On route I think we had 3 more stops to show passports and for the local constabulary to check all of our names off on the list. The first hour of the journey was pretty uneventful though I have to say I was already feeling a little spoilt with my seat next to Wayne and the window, while Camilla, Steve, Michelle and Nicole were packed into the back seat (which I am sure is best made for three even for the shortest of journeys).
Anyway once outside of Linden we hit the “trail”, which is basically an orange dirt track.I have to say the drivers that do the Lethum to Georgetown route are pretty good and obviously know the trail well but consider most of us in our cars from home would probably take these sort of roads at 10 – 15 mph (dad probably 5!) and these guys average around 80 – 100 mph in places, so as you can imagine it was pretty bumpy.
Unfortunately for me my right ear was just the same height as the metal window bar so I got a few bruises! Anyway we travelled on through the night, stopping as I say to visit the local police stations along the way. Like any sort of journey it becomes a little bit blurry after a while and the minutes slip into hours. Most of us got at least a few hours kip I think, not that the loud music was helping that much but it was piece of mind that it was keeping the driver awake. We stopped off towards the end of the journey in Anai where we started to see or at least focus for the first time on the changes in scenery….the savannas and the mountains – even though bleary eyes it was an amazing sight. Wayne had arranged for us to take a boat over to Iwokrama field station and to stop off for Breakfast. Iwokrama is an amazing nature reserve and really only for the more fortunate traveller as the prices are through the roof, though when you see the scenery and appreciate the conversation work they do down there you feel it is fairly reasonable and understandable. One of the tour guides kindly took some time out and talked to us about some of the animals which are seen there and the work that they do. So even though we were there for just a short time we got to experience a small part of the experience of staying on the site.
On our arrival in Lethum we drove around a little dropping off a few people along the way. We eventually ended up camping in the bus drivers back yard, as he had a nice space with outside bathroom and shower, a luxury by most of my previously camping experiences. Imagine also setting you tent up with no real need for tent pegs!
Lethum is a fairly small town and like most places in Guyana, most people know each other. It was also really nice to hook up with Teddy and Vanessa who are VSO’s working down there. On our first night we found one of the Brazilian places for dinner (there are probably only 2- 3 places to eat and they all look much the same and have strong Brazilian influences) where some of the group got their first taster of the traditional “meat on a stick”. I actually had fish which was not so bad but I have to say I don’t think I would last too long down there since if you don’t eat meat you are fairly limited and fish was no where to be seen after that first day.
During our stay we managed to pack a few things in. We did a fairly effortful walk up to a water fall. We had to follow a big water pipe up the side of a mountain, which had steps at the best of places but also boulders and steep dirt track on others. We all managed it though, including Lucia, so we all felt pretty pleased with ourselves. The waterfall at the top made it all worth while….getting down in places though was a little tuff again but it was an achievement none the less.
We also headed over to Brazil for the day. It was just a short boat trip, literally 5 minutes or so across the water, and then a short walk to the boarder control. We flashed our passports again and began a nice 24 hours in Boa Vista.
We spent the first few minutes wondering around looking for a supermarket. Although we are talking just a short dash across the water the differences were quite amazing. No one really spoke any English and the different products available in the markets were worth the trip alone! We didn’t actually buy very much but it was nice window shopping for shiny fruits and a looking through the clothes. That night we headed off to a club, which was OK but I realised fairly soon that actually they are the kind of places I can really do without and although pleasant enough I can probably cope without another for the next year and a half – scary bill system though; you get a registered card, which you pay with (swipe) throughout the night and then pay the whole bill at the end. Dangerous very very dangerous!
On the Sunday we headed up to the famous Rodeo, which for Easter is what Lethum is famous for. It was a really great day….just what you would expect with Rodeo, cowboys and hats (yeah we all had to buy a hat! – and some of us looked better than others)
…one of the highlights was the greasy pig competition (maybe animal lovers should turn away at this point). Basically they “grease up” a pig and then set a load of children after it to see if they can catch it….very funny and the pride on the winner’s faces was priceless.
I guess it is worth remembering that the skills that were seen at rodeo are more that just a hobby, this is really a way of life for the Amerindians living there.
It was a great day though and well worth the 9 hours or so trip down. The thought of the trip back was not so great but none the less it was fine and to be honest although a little uncomfortable once the 9 hours or so were over it was sort of surprising that it was actually that long.
As you will see if you look at my web album the memory of Lethum was captured on several cameras…I eventually managed to whittle it down to 333 photos! I think to start with I had 600 or so! Anyway they should now be on line ( I am uploading them as I type but hopefully it will have finished by the time you come to read this!). The memory of Lethum also lives on in the form of orange sand which has managed to stain most of the white things I took with me (yeah I know….. stupid, but I will know for next time!)
For now I am looking forward to May, a few of us are planning a trip to Region 1 and Turtle beach and then I head off to meet my mum and dad in St. Lucia before bringing them back to town. As you can imagine I can’t wait to see them and catch up with all the news.
I have also a few workshops to plan and deliver for next week, so for those of you wondering, yeah I am still working so please don’t worry!
Anyway I hope that at least some of you are still out there and reading! Take care and I will check in soon, probably with some nice beach photos from St. Lucia (yippeeeeeee!)
1 comment:
Hey Hannah. It sounds like you're still having a blast and have settled in really well. I'm so thrilled for you. You must be so excited to see your mum and dad ( in St Lucia as well - stop it woman you';re killing me!!)
I have to admit to being a little envious as i sit here staring at my to do list and wondering where to start!! We've got a week in greece to look foearwd to in three weeks - I can't wait to get some sun on my body. i'm praying the summer is better than last year. I recall masses of mud anbd wellies at Womad which just won't do.
Take care and be good. All love wendy xxxxx
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